Beauty : MAC "Airbrush Basics" Masterclass

FRIEND OR FOE?

Airbrushing has been around for decades, but has become re-popularized within the last 5-6 years in answer to HD everything!  Airbrush is definitely making its presence everywhere...in infomercials, spa and makeup trade shows, etc.  It's widely used for television, film, bridal work, spray tanning, body painting, special effects, etc...airbrush makeup has a wide range of versatility and uses.

However there are many pros and cons to using this system, which Melissa Gibson (MAC Senior Artist) tells us at the MAC "Airbrush Basics" Masterclass.  If used properly, airbrush makeup can look flawless, seamless and spectacular on the skin, but make a mistake and you've got to start over again.  Eek!  It's a craft you have to really practice to get good at.  Hence the dot and sweep exercises you can do on paper, as well as practising on face charts.  Gibson also advises makeup artists who are starting out to practice on themselves to get a good feel for the PSI levels of air coming out the airbrush gun and consistency. You can't be heavy-handed with airbrush. If you see product on the face, then most likely you've applied too much and it ends up looking like a mask.

Some of the advantages of using airbrush?  Works well on all skin types - especially large pores, wrinkles, etc.  Makeup looks as if it floats on the skin (almost seems non-existent but provides coverage) and dries to a natural matte finish.  And the staying power is unbelievable. When body painting, colours stay true and can be layered without getting mixed and looking muddy.  It's considered more sanitary too - because product is being sprayed out, there isn't any contact or cross-contamination of bacteria. 

 Andrea (MAC Artist) demonstrates body contouring using airbrush on model : Kenneth.

So why doesn't every makeup artist go out and get one of these puppies?  One thing, it can be expensive. You have to buy a compressor, airbrush gun, airbrush specific products, etc.  It can really add up fast!  All the equipment can be heavy to lug around. You'll need access to an electrical outlet for it to work (unless you get one that has a portable battery).  The airbrush gun gets clogged easily. With improper use, product can spurt out unexpectedly - ruining your beautiful work. If you make a mistake (ie. incorrect product placement or accidentally smearing something with your finger), you basically have to start over.  And after each session, you have to take the airbrush gun apart piece by piece and is a pain-in-the-butt to clean.

At MAC (www.maccosmetics.com), they've partnered up with Iwata (www.iwata-medea.com) and is offering the airbrush compressor ($350 CAD) and airbrush gun  ($170 CAD). The airbrush gun comes in two options : side or gravity feed. They have a full range of silicone-based foundation called Micronized Airbrush Formula ($35.50 CAD each). These foundations can be used for airbrushing or on its own using your regular makeup brushes. They are transfer-resistant but not waterproof.  You can even use water-based MAC Face & Body foundation for airbrushing. You can sheer it out with MAC Mixing Medium ($22 CAD) depending on the coverage/consistency you want.

Personally I own an airbrush system for doing makeup, particularly for brides and photo shoots. I don't know if it's my friend or my foe.  Most times, it produces amazing results and well worth every penny spent invested in this.  But there have been a few times it didn't work the way I wanted and the result looked horrific!  It's a lot of trial and error.  You definitely build a love-hate relationship with this thing.  I'll admit, I DESPISE cleaning that airbrush gun at the end of each of my gigs!  Sometimes you hope some of your clients choose not to go with airbrushing just to avoid the inevitable!!!  But honestly, at the end of the day, with huge advancements in foundation formulations, if you were to do one side of the face with airbrush and the other side with conventional makeup, it'll probably look the same or quite similar.  The only difference, is the airbrush side might feel slightly lighter on the face then conventional makeup. 

Melissa Gibson (MAC Senior Artist) doing airbrush demo on model : Julia.

So yay or nay?  If you have an airbrush machine and you're good at using it, you'll definitely be at an advantage over other makeup artists.  But it's really up to you as an artist to decide if it works with the type of makeup jobs you tend to get, the location you do your work and your budget.  As Melissa Gibson mentioned, "it's really an extension of your tools."  In the end, it's up to you to practice and hone in on your craft.  Even though you can do eye designs and artwork with your airbrush, it will never replace all of your conventional tools like your brushes, powders, etc.  It's about being creative and just having fun with it.

Article : Maggie Ng

Photos : M Studio Life

Venue : MAC Pro Store (Queen St)